Press - By Neil Martins - Vintage 2023
BY NEIL MARTINS Vintage 2023
From: The Lord Giveth...Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)
Caroline Drouhin guided me through their 2023s. She told me that they used 60% new oak on the Premier and Grand Crus that now come from five cooperages instead of four: Raymond, Cavin, Seguin Moreau, Billaud and Ateliers Centre France. From the 2024 vintage, they are using their new winery onsite rather than the old one that had been used since her great-grandmother. The new facility has more efficient temperature-controlled vats that are easier to clean.
I was enamored by the 2023s from this Domaine, which I have been visiting since Caroline's parents' days. Back then, the wines were often extracted and oaky, in vogue at that time. These wines are cut from a different cloth: picked a little earlier, a lighter maceration, with more red fruit and a lighter veneer of oak that is more proportionate to the fruit concentration. The best had been doing cartwheels of joy (metaphorically). I have no doubt that their 2023s surpass their 2022s; in fact, this might be the most consistent and satisfying range from Drouhin-Laroze.
Musigny 2023
Grand Cru
(94-96)
Drinking windows: 2025-2047
Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 2023
Grand Cru
(95-97)
Drinking windows: 2028-2050
Clos de Vougeot 2023
Grand Cru
(95-97)
Drinking windows: 2027-2049
Bonnes Mares 2023
Grand Cru
(93-95)
Drinking windows: 2027-2050
Chapelle-Chambertin 2023
Grand Cru
(93-95)
Drinking windows: 2028-2048
Latricières-Chambertin 2023
Grand Cru
(91-93)
Drinking windows: 2027-2048
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Lavaut St-Jacques 2023
(90-92)
Drinking windows: 2026-2040
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Craipillot 2023
(93-95)
Drinking windows: 2026-2044
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Clos Prieur 2023
(92-94)
Drinking windows: 2027-2045
