Millésime 2009 par Allen Meadows

BURGHOUND.COM, January 2011

Philippe Drouhin described the 2009 growing season as "one where, with the exception of January, it was hot year. Whe had higher-than-normal temperatures with a very dry August. The dryness though was not really an issue for the vines because the rainfall in June and July were well above average. The one negative impact however of the sufeit of rain was that it swelled the grapes and while the August head ameliorated the solids to liquid ratios, it still did not restore it to say what we experienced in 2005. We elected to begin picking on the 10th of September and brought in extremely clean fruit with high potential alcohols. Yields were abundant and about the only concern was in some cases lowish acidities. As to the wines, the fruit is pretty and ripe, the tannins are quite fine and the structures firm without being aggressive. Overall, I believe 2009 is a magnificent vintage”.

Morey St Denis 2009: (87-89) 2015+.

A very fresh and relatively high-toned nose of red berry nuanced with subtle earth and game note leads to vibrant and nicely detailed middle weight flavors that possess a relatively refined mouth feel and fine length on mildly austere finish.

Gevrey Chambertin 2009: (87-89) 2016+.

This is also very fresh with pretty red pinot fruit that liberally laced with pungent Gevrey-style earth that complements detailed and tension-filled medium-bodied flavors that culminate in a clean and dry finish in the best senses of those terms. There is also a touch of youthful austerity but the ripeness of the tannins suggests that it will not last indefinitely.

Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Prieur 2009: (89-91) 2017+

 Reduction dominates the nose but there is a good vibrancy to the rich and round if slightly less complex medium-bodied flavors that are quite firm while evidencing a hint of animale on the delicious and mineral-driven finish. Solid if not truly special quality here.

Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Au Closeau 2009: (89-92) 2017+

(From 60+ year old vines). A more deeply pitched and much earthier nose of dark berry fruit and underbrush aromas introduces rich, delicious and well concentrated flavors blessed with ample amounts of mouth coating dry extract and a balanced finish. This is quite restrained and understated in style.

Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Craipillot 2009: (89-91) 2017+

A touch of wood spice adds breadth to the fresh and bright red berry fruit that also cut with distinct Gevrey earth notes that continue onto the supple, round and attractively detailed middle weight flavors that possess an elegant mouth feel and a lovely touch of minerality on the solidly persistent finish.

Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut St Jacques 2009: (90-92) 2019+ 

(From a 0.3 ha parcel of vines planted in 1943). An exceptionally fresh, cool and airy high-toned red berry and wet stone infused nose precedes equally stony and well-delineated middle weight flavors that possess a very firm and moderately austere finish. This is impeccably balanced and is built on its minerality. In sum, this is a classic Lavaut.

Chapelle-Chambertin 2009: (90-93) 2021+

(From 0.52 ha parcel in En la Chapelle). Discreet wood sets of a deeply pitched nose that combines both wild red and dark berry fruit along with hints of spice, stone and warm earth that complement the firm, detailed and chalky-textured flavors that possess excellent complexity and a lovely sense of underlying tension.

Latricières-Chambertin 2009: (91-93) 2021+

(From 0.67 ha parcel of extremely old vines).  This is even cooler and more restrained with a gorgeously elegant nose of iron and stone infused red berry and plum aromas that are in keeping with the intense mineral-inflected medium weight plus flavors that possess excellent vibrancy on the firm and notably austere finish. This is lovely as there is evident class and grace.

Chambolle-Musigny 2009: (89-91) 2017+

(A mix of 80% Les Baudes and 20% from the villages portion of Les Veroilles.) A background touch of wood does not interfere with the transparency of the fresh high-toned nose of red pinot fruit that leads to elegant and refined medium-bodied flavors that are shaped and supported by a very firm and moderately austere finish. This is a harmonious wine that is an excellent villages though partially because there is so much 1er in it.

Clos de Vougeot 2009: (92-94) 2024+

(This and the Latricières are from the oldest vines of the Domaine and this wine come from a superbly situated 1 ha parcel of Clos de Vougeot high on the hill). This is also backwards and inexpressive with a ripe nose of red and blue berry fruit aromas that are cut with notes of earth, underbrush and slightly sauvage hint that reflected by the dense, serious and overtly muscular big-bodied flavors that possess a highly-textured mouth feel on the youthfully austere and quite firmly structured finish.  A classic Clos de Vougeot

Bonnes-Mares 2009: (91-93) 2024+

(From a 1.5 ha parcel t(hat is almost entirely in terres rouges). This is also quite restrained indeed almost shy with a muted nose of dark berry fruit and earth that gives way to extremely fresh, supple and surprisingly forward flavors that almost instantly tighten up into a backwards and very firm and austere finish. This is a classically styled and proportioned Bonnes Mares that will require at least 15 years of cellar time.

Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 2009: (92-95) 2024+

(From a parcel of 1.5 ha of vines planted in 1949). A fresh nose mixes both natural and wood spice together with rose petal, wild red currant and intense earthiness that also suffuses cool, elegant, admirably pure and beautifully well-detailed flavors that culminate in a linear, austere and hugely long finish. This should be first rate but like all these grands crus, it will note be an early drinker.

Musigny 2009: (93-96) 2024+

(From a 0.12 ha parcel). This is also aromatically discreet though aggressive swirling liberates an ultra pure, refined and airy nose of highly spiced red and blue berries and plum that also quite cool and minerally and this restraint continues onto the precise and moderately austere broad-shouldered flavors that are supported by refined tannins and genuinely incredible length. This is an intensely mineral-suffused yet velvety wine that should mature into a great example of the appellation as the potential is certainly here. In a word, brilliant.