Christy Canterbury / TIM ATKIN
97 - Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, Musigny GC 2021
The Drouhin's Musigny is easy to spot in the vineyard because it is planted in an « S » configuration. Nicolas says this was because it was easier for the horses to work on the steep slopes back in the day, but he plans on keeping it like this. And hopefully nothing else in this cuvée changes as the intensity is majestic. Mulberry, cherry, dried flower bouquet and haunting spice send chills down the spine. The acidity tingles and the precise tannins are well behaved through the long, earthy and smoky finish. Every aspect of the wine is perfectly detailed.
96 - Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Chambertin-Clos de Bèze GC 2021
This comes from a generous 1,5 hectare parcel with deep soils. Nicolas vinifies them separately, but he doesn't see an interest in bottling them separately. Cassis and licorice lift from the glass before the solid, filling mid-palate takes center stage. There's punchy, reverberating acidity and streamlined but seriously dense tannins. This will be lovely in ten-plus-years.
96 - Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Clos de Vougeot GC 2021
This comes from one hectare behind the château. It sees zero whole cluster but Nicolas works to pull out all of its matière, or concentration. Spice, black plums and oak char give this a lovely sultriness. The tannins tug and the acidity electrifies the palate, creating an incredibly dynamic sip. This has terrific structure as well as a regal air to it.
95 - Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Bonnes Mares GC 2021
The Drouhins have four parcels totaling almost two whopping hectares. About 40% is on the red soils and 60% on white. This has a pretty, effusive nose with that spicy Bonnes Mares typicity. The palate is sappy with chunky mulberry and cherry fruit as well as baked strawberries. It's exotic and expansive with a more relaxed structure than the other Grand Crus. This might be more accessible a bit earlier, but don't rush to open it.
95 - Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Chapelle-Chambertin GC 2021
Though all of the Grand Crus here see about 80% new oak, this one was showing it the most with some sweet vanilla and gently toasted spices taking center stage. Black plums and fresh flower notes add depth on the mid-palate, where some wood-influenced tannins contribute a slightly rugged edge. There is a big sponge of fruit to absorb the oak in time.
95 - Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Latricières-Chambertin GC 2021
Open and giving on the nose, the palate is packed with red and black berries. The acidity is scintillating and the tannins are crunchy-thanks in part to the chalky soils. This is a firmer, rather serious Latricières that will need some patience. The parcel measures 0,80 hectare, but about one-third has been pulled out for replanting down the road
94 - Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Gevrey-Chambertin PC Craipillot 2021
These 60-year-old vines sit right in the valley, making this a very cold terroir. The wine is divinely spicy with intriguing menthol notes lightening the layered black fruits. It's rounded and palate-filling with excellent mineral length.
94 - Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Gevrey-Chambertin PC Lavaut-Saint-Jacques 2021
Nicolas never uses whole cluster here as he feels the vineyard is too chilly. The difference from some of the others in the stable is the full-throttle fruit with less whole bunch spiciness. Cherries and plums pack onto the mid-palate. The palate texture is velvety, making this a surprisingly accessible Lavaut.
94 - Laroze de Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny PC Les Lavrottes 2021
Blackberries and candied cherries zoom out of the glass here. It is a darker-fruited Chambolle, but there are all the finessed acidity and cozy tannins characteristic of Chambolle. This may be the last year for this cuvée as the domaine from which it was purchased was sold. Time to cross all digits that more can be had in the future.