Tasting notes - Millésime 2020

Millésime 2020
Gevrey Chambertin 'Dix Climats'

Slight reduction at first but blows off quickly, leaving pure and brambly fruit with a distinctly Gevrey 'wild' edge.  Gains in purity in the glass, with air, and develops a black cherry note.  Sleek and quite spherical on the palate, it's clearly the best vintage of this cuvee I've ever tasted at this stage.  Tannins are silky and reach to the back of the palate.  Not complex but juicy, fruit-led and pure with lovely clean lines and a gentle freshness.  Surprisingly persistent finish.
89-91pts - Matthew Hemming MW
Equally ripe and fresh aromas are comprised by notes of poached plum, violet and a discreet but perceptible touch of wood. The bright, vibrant and delicious medium weight flavors possess solid density while offering just a bit more overall depth and persistence.
89/91pts - Allen Meadows

Gevrey Chambertin 'En Combes'

The nose is more expressive than the En Champs with some spice and classic ferrous notes of Gevrey.  As before, it doesn't best respond to swirling and is better left alone to blossom in the glass.  As would be expected of the higher altitude vineyards, there is a crisper line of acid and it has much more of a structural spine.  This gives impressive energy through the core, especially for a village wine.  Some floral and blossom notes - peonies - alongside red berry fruit.  Fans out with spicy characters on the back palate.  This has lots to offer and is solidly at 1er Cru level.
90-93pts - Matthew Hemming MW
This is aromatically quite similar to the En Champs though with even more floral influence and a subtle touch of wood. There is fine density to the appealingly textured flavors that exude a bracing salinity on the more complex finale. Lovely.
89/91 - Allen Meadows - 'Outstanding'

Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Au Closeau

An airy nose reflects notes of red currant, wild blackberry, and plenty of floral wisps. Here too the mouthfeel of the medium weight flavors is relatively refined with good vibrancy that carries over to the slightly more complex and persistent finish.
89/92 - Allen Meadows - 'Outstanding'

Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

Oak spice, dark toned fruits and floral qualities here all in a fleshy, juicy, ripe package.  You can sense the energy of this wine from the nose alone.  It is large-scaled on the palate and has immediate drama and volume but balanced by sufficient acidity to be fresh and vivid.  The tannins of Clos Vougeot are impressively tamed and fine, although you certainly feel their presence.  It is scented through the mid-palate with notes of violets, spice and musky red berries.  The finish has a classic black pepper note.  This really demonstrates why there's such enthusiasm for Clos Vougeot in 2020 and bursts with energy throughout its line.
92-95pts - Matthew Hemming MW
No stems. A significant, dense purple black colour. Lush raspberry and sun-dried cherries, the signature of the vintage. Sturdy and weighty, the tannic structure offers some relief which will help this wine come together later on in life. Some peaches in the fruit mix too.
92-95pts - Jasper Morris MW

Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

40% whole bunch vinification 80% new wood, and a yield of just 24 hl/ha. Dark dense purple, this is clearly one of the ripe wines though somewhat saved by the whole bunches which give greater life to the sundried cherry fruit. Very succulent through the second half of the palate, though at the limit of ripeness. The whole bunches pull out the length very nicely and it finishes well.
93-96pts - Jasper Morris MW

Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru

Even after minutes in the glass this remains closed and brooding, giving nothing away.  Markedly savoury, dry and muscular on the palate.  This is giving no quarter.  Shows Grand Cru volume and structure but all the tannins are grape, rather than wood, tannins.  Whilst everything about this wine is tightly wound and high-tensile, the mid-palate hints at layers of savoury depth within.  It's complex and there's a sense of energy too.  Much more mineral than the other 2020s in the range and finishes with piling tannins.
93-95pts - Matthew Hemming MW
30% whole bunch vinification, and aged in 100% new wood. Dark intense purple. This has the most interesting nose to date of the grands crus because the least lush. More volume of fruit across the palate, less lush and more juicy, with a precision too. Tannins in balance, with just a hint of phenols at the finish.
94-96pts - Jasper Morris MW