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  • Ausgabe 10 - Oktober 2024

    SCHWEIZERISCHE WEINZEITUNG

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Press

Vintage 2021 by Allen Meadows

Philippe Drouhin's children, Caroline and Nicolas, now both work at the domaine full-time and have essentially assumed full responsibility for the wines. I met this trip with Caroline, who described the 2021 vintage as one where "the growing season was seriously problematic as we were hit with a variety of problems that included frost, a bit of hail and succession of cryptogamic diseases. Yields were clearly down but fruit quality was good and with good potential alcohols. We used between 10 and 15% whole clusters for the vinifications and had no trouble with the fermentations. As to the style of the 2021 vintage, it satnds in stark contrast to the trio of 2018 to 2020 as it's much more classic with lovely terroir transparency." See also the wines from Maison Laroze de Drouhin below. (Atherton Wine Imports, , CA, Terlato Wines International, IL, USA; The Wine Society, , FINE+RARE Wines Ltd, , Davy & Co., , Goedhuis & Co., , Decorum Vintners, , Averys Fine Wine Merchants, , Tanners Wine, , Laytons, , Cru World Wine, , Justerini & Brooks, , Anthony Sarjeant, anthony@anthonysarjeant.co.uk and Fields, Morris & Verdin, , all UK; Watson's Wines, 852.2606.8828, , Hong Kong; Domaine Wine Cellars, , Taiwan complex finale.
www.awiwine.comwww.thewinesociety.comwww.frw.co.ukwww.davywine.co.ukwww.goedhuis.comwww.decvin.comwww.averys.comwww.tanners-wines.co.ukwww.laytons.co.ukwww.uk.cruworldwine.comwww.justerinis.comwww.fmvwines.comwww.watsonswine.comwww.domaine.com.tw

2021 - Gevrey-Chambertin « Dix Climats »

(87-89)/2026+

("Dix Climats" means 10 vineyards). Somber if fresh aromas include those of plum, dark currant, newly turned earth and a whiff of the sauvage. The rich, generously proportioned and velvet-textured flavors contrast somewhat with the mildly tangy finish that is shaped by bright acidity. Note that there is a reasonably chance that the tanginess will gradually subside with a few years of aging.


2021 - Gevrey-Chambertin

"En Combe"

(87-89)/2027+

(from Combe du Bas). A slightly more elegant nose combines both red and blue pinot fruit along with plenty of earth nuances that are also reflected by the precise and vibrant if less rich flavors that also

display a touch of tanginess on the lightly austere finale. Here too my projected range offers the benefit of the doubt that the tanginess will eventually diminish.


2021 - Gevrey-Chambertin

« En Champs »

(86-89)/2027+

Aromas of poached plum, newly turned earth and forest floor give way to suave, round and delicious flavors that possess a polished, even seductive, mouthfeel that contrasts with the slightly austere and ever-so-mildly drying finale. Here it's not clear that the slightly dryness will necessarily fade away with time.


2021- Chambolle-Musigny

(89-91)/2029+

(a mix of .18 ha in Les Baudes and .04 ha from the villages portion of Les Véroilles). Notes of crushed fennel and green tea combine with those of red pinot fruit, spice and violet. The sleeker and finer, if not necessarily denser, medium weight flavors possess a lovely mid-palate texture before terminating in a youthfully austere and more

 

2021 - Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

"Au Closeau "

(88-91)/2028+

(Drouhin is the only producer of this tiny .53 ha vineyard and owns 83% of it, or .44 ha; from vines planted in 1943). A markedly earthier nose offers up notes of dark berries cut with humus and forest floor wisps. The rich and relatively full-bodied flavors possess a caressing mid-palate and good energy that carries over to the delicious and sneaky long finish that is shaped by herb-tinged acidity.


20121- Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru

« Craipillot»

(89-92)/2029+

(from a parcel measuring .26 ha planted in 1943 and 1953). Hints of crushed leaf suffuses the red and dark currant aromas where touches of spice and violet add a touch of elegance. The lilting and refined flavors possess a succulent mid-palate where the lingering finish is a bit longer as well as better-balanced.


2021- Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

« Clos Prieur »

(89-92)/2031+

(from a parcel of .30 ha that was planted in 1954 though a section was replanted in

2003; vinified with 25% whole clusters). A mentholated top note is present on the restrained, fresh and cool aromas of red and

black cherry laced with enough earth character to mention. The equally refined but punchier medium weight flavors exude a

discreet minerality that adds a sense of lift to the more structured, powerful and youthfully austere finish. There's slightly more

depth here but it's also sufficiently strict that this will certainly need at least some patience


20121- Gevrey-Chambertin 1 er Cru

« Lavaut-Saint-Jacques »

(90-93)/2033+

(from a .3 ha parcel of vines planted in 1943). Here too there is a touch of crushed leaf character to the brooding aromas of wild berries, game and forest floor along with a similar hint of menthol. There is more size, weight and muscle to the more concentrated medium-bodied flavors that are at once succulent but powerful on the mineral-driven, very firm and lingering finish. Good potential here but patience also necessary as this too is a bit strict at present.


2021 - Chapelle-Chambertin - Grand Cru

(91-94)/2033+

(from a .52 ha parcel in En La Chapelle). Once again there is a green tea component to the more elegant aromas of fennel, red cherry and a pretty floral top note. There is good volume to the seductively textured middleweight flavors that are supported by a firm tannic spine on the slightly longer and more complex finale.


2021 - Latricières-Chambertin - Grand Cru

(91-94)/2033+

(from a .67 ha parcel of extremely old vines). A spicy and more deeply pitched nose features notes of black raspberry, pepper and plenty of newly turned earth wisps. The sleek and almost painfully intense flavors are crystalline in their purity and seem to be built on a base of minerality, all wrapped in a powerful, linear and very long if moderately strict finish. Patience absolutely advised as this is not likely to make for interesting early drinking.


2021 - Bonnes Mares - Grand Cru

(89-91)/2031+

(from a 1.5 ha parcel that is almost entirely in the terres rouges section). This also displays nuances of crushed leaf and pepper on the cool essence of red berry aromas. There is both good volume and richness to the caressing larger-scaled flavors that contrast considerably with the tangy and austere finale that lacks the same depth.


2021- Chambertin-Clos de Bèze - Grand Cru

(88-91)/2033+

(from a parcel of 1.5 ha of vines planted in 1949). There is a vaguely herbaceous quality to the very spicy red and dark berry fruit aromas. The rich, round and delicious middleweight plus possess a seductive mid-palate while displaying very good depth and persistence. While this could use more depth, that should reasonably occur with time. What is less clear as how the nose will evolve as the herbaceous character isn't subtle at present.


2021- Clos de Vougeot - Grand Cru

(89-91)-2031+

(from a superbly situated 1 ha parcel high on the hill). Moderate wood and menthol influences can be found on the green tea, earth and plum-scented nose. The big-bodied flavors possess an appealing mid-palate texture that also contrasts with the linear, tangy and youthfully austere finale. This will undoubtedly flesh out with time in bottle though whether the tangy acidity will better integrate is an open question.


2021- Musigny - Grand Cru

(91-94)/2033+

(from a .12 ha parcel). A discreet application of wood sets off overtly spicy, elegant and cool aromas of plum, red and dark berries, exotic tea and a whiff of violet. There is excellent richness and volume to the dense and mineral-driven larger-scaled flavors that possess notably better depth along with fine length on the firmly structured finale.


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